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 Post subject: Unified Paint Guide
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 10:02 pm 
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Test Pilot
Test Pilot

Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 12363
Location: That flattop, up the well, overhead …
Seems to me we've had some threads on the subject of whom's got a good brand of paint and how to strip old paint off: I'm thinking we should ether repete the info here, or find the links to them old threads . . .

Go to it, guys! :thumbsup:

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Goose - The Egyptian God of Frustration

"He closes his eyes and remembers the night splattered with brightness, the sudden flare of erupting fuel, the mad chase as, supersonic, he bobbed and weaved among the hills and valleys of the Ozarks, the laws on his tail, burning for home …"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:08 am 
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Test Pilot
Test Pilot

Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 12363
Location: That flattop, up the well, overhead …
Now don't everybody jump in all at once. :thumbsdown:

_________________
Goose - The Egyptian God of Frustration

"He closes his eyes and remembers the night splattered with brightness, the sudden flare of erupting fuel, the mad chase as, supersonic, he bobbed and weaved among the hills and valleys of the Ozarks, the laws on his tail, burning for home …"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:33 am 
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Loki
Loki

Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 11442
Location: Minnesnowta
If you you insist not...;-)

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Medron Pryde - The Great and Terrible :blah:
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P.R.I. - The home of BattleTech programs and files
"I'm gonna Tea Party like its 1776." - Medron Pryde
Who is John Galt?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:35 am 
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Loki
Loki

Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 11442
Location: Minnesnowta
Seriously, I use Games Workshop for most of my paints. The only paints they seem to carry in most games stores.

I've picked up Testers paints at model and hobby shops and those do MUCH better IMHO at doing technological units.

_________________
Medron Pryde - The Great and Terrible :blah:
Image
P.R.I. - The home of BattleTech programs and files
"I'm gonna Tea Party like its 1776." - Medron Pryde
Who is John Galt?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:09 pm 
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Lieutenant General
Lieutenant General

Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2003 8:28 pm
Posts: 633
Location: Somewhere between Morgues and Arc-Royal, fighting with the Wolves-in-Exile.
I use a mix of paints... Mainly GW's line of paints despite the fact they jack the prices up once every 3 - 6 months...

The next i use is Reaper. Though I find that I need to shake VERY vigourously after adding 12 drops of water. The consistancy is good, and compliments GW.

I only recently started using the Vallejo line of acryllics and have found them to be just as good, if not a little better than GW. My only annoyance is the droplet bottle. Other than that, great consistancy and compliments GW paint use very well.

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Once more unto the breach.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:20 pm 
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The Pirate King
The Pirate King

Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 2742
Location: Arcadia, Fla
I primarily use Apple Barrel paints and GW inks (with a small selection of colored India inks) for washes. For stripping I use Greased Lightning Orange Blast (readily available at Walmart).

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Image "There's still a place for lighter equipment like the Banshee and Zeus....." Col. Thomas Hogarth LAAF


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:27 am 
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Lieutenant, SG
Lieutenant, SG

Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2003 10:48 am
Posts: 208
Location: Ghost Bear Dominion, painting Clan Battle Armor
I use and LOVE the Reaper Master Series paints, which are based on teh same formula as Vallejos, but with soem twists. They cna be diluted with water and hold their colors well, and usually dry very smooth. Anyhoo, just my two cents on the matter.

Oh, and another thing is that they sell colors in trids, so you can have a base coat, regular, and highlight coat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:45 am 
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Commanding General
Commanding General

Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 1998
Location: The State Of Logic
I use Apple Barrel, Aleene's, Ceramcoat acrylic paints and Windsor Newton inks. Sometimes I use Doc's inks.

I use oven cleaner for strips. Nail Polish Remover works well for a lower strength remover.

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To indeed be a god.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:05 am 
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Test Pilot
Test Pilot

Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 12363
Location: That flattop, up the well, overhead …
Your talking about lye and acitone, right?

_________________
Goose - The Egyptian God of Frustration

"He closes his eyes and remembers the night splattered with brightness, the sudden flare of erupting fuel, the mad chase as, supersonic, he bobbed and weaved among the hills and valleys of the Ozarks, the laws on his tail, burning for home …"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:50 pm 
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Corporal
Corporal

Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 4:06 pm
Posts: 20
Location: The Sooner State
I use Delta's Ceramcoat line for paints pretty much exclusively. Good range of colors, and they mix well. Do have to water them down a little for most things, about 60%paint/40% water works well.

Plus they are inexpensive at around $1 for a 2 oz. bottle.

As far as a paint stripper, the cheap store-brand Pine-sol knockoff I have found works REALLY well, even better than the real stuff.

_________________
"This is a war universe. War all the time. That is its nature. There may be other universes based on all sorts of other principles, but ours seems to be based on war and games." -- William S. Burroughs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 7:02 pm 
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Sergeant
Sergeant

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 10:02 pm
Posts: 56
Folkart Metallics is how the Cavalry pimps their rides.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 11:53 pm 
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Stratego
Stratego

Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 10768
Location: Ft. Hood Texas
Okay this may sound odd, but common house paint or out door latex enamel or flat works well as base coat. That is what I use, since if I mess up, it's easier to remove and start over.

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Karagin-

Darkness is a friend of mine. Sometimes I have to beat it back, or it would overwhelm me. Shirley Meier

http://karagin12.livejournal.com/

The Wookiee, he's not wearing any pants!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 12:53 pm 
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Warrant Officer
Warrant Officer

Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 113
Location: Washington DC
I use a real eclectic mix of paints, Apple Barrel, Cermacoat, GW, RP/IW and Vallejo. I even have some Rennisance Inks paints which are nice.

Vallejo is hard to use sometimes, as it can come real thin out of the bottle, but it's not hard to learn how to use it, and in many cases, two thin is better than one thick coat. I like the eyedropper approach, makes the paint last longer.

The Ral Partha/Iron Wind are among some of the best I have used, sometimes, you have to thin them, but the bottles are intelligently designed and the paint consistancy is perfect.

I also like the craft paints for similar reasons, but many times, you do have to thin them a mite, but as base coats for custom mixes as well as "bulk colors" for the more common colors I tend to use (Being a Davionista, I tend to go through a LOT of green), but all in all, I have found the paints to be rather easy on the wallet and come in a surpising number and range of colors. The bottles, however, Well, sometimes I find myself cursing those, but then again, you do get a lot for the money.

As for GW, I like older GW in the old flip top bottles. As there is a LOT of it still floating around, it's not that hard to get, and their washes are very good (Especially their Orc Flesh Wash to do panel lines on my 7th Crucis Lancer guys). But, the newer bottles and the new mixes are shite. Best thing I can tell people is to STAY AWAY.

Another don't waste your money is Howard Hues. I like them, but the paints don't last long at all. The colors seperate within a month or two of the paint bottle being opened. All my other paints have held up for years in many cases, but this is disconcerting. Don't waste the money. Vallejo makes many of the same colors for better quality.

_________________
"So, Chief, you think the blood stains will come out of that command couch? I mean, that B-mer is preemo salvage!"
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 4:59 am 
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Loki
Loki

Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 11442
Location: Minnesnowta
I echo his call on the Citadel/GW paints. THe old ones with the flip tops rule. The new ones with the screw tops suck. They don't seal well and the paint dries out. That is bad.

I recently picked up some Reaper paint. It seems to work well, though I don't know how long it will last in the bottle. It uses an eyedropper style as well and is very liquidy.

I hope it will work well for a long time for me. :-)

_________________
Medron Pryde - The Great and Terrible :blah:
Image
P.R.I. - The home of BattleTech programs and files
"I'm gonna Tea Party like its 1776." - Medron Pryde
Who is John Galt?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:17 pm 
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Corporal
Corporal

Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:53 am
Posts: 26
Medron,
GW have released a new bottle that is a hybrid, and has the clear plastic bottle with a screw on flip top lid, much better than the screw on only versions, and even better than the old clouded plastic bottle because the flip top lid is now sturdier. I have bought several of their mixing pots to put my old paints in.

As for paints, I use Tamia grey primer, and GW line of paints, sometimes craft paints for base coating..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:34 am 
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Corporal
Corporal

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:41 pm
Posts: 25
I've been using Testors and Model Master enamels for eons. I like the acyrlics much better, so for the last two years or so, I've been using Reaper Pro and Master Series paints. All the Testors Model Master Acryl paints are good too, for metals and military colors.

I use two things to strip paint. The first is oven cleaner spray, for old paint. For new paint or just primer, I use floor cleaner.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:09 pm 
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Test Pilot
Test Pilot

Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 12363
Location: That flattop, up the well, overhead …
Anybody have anything to say on primer?

_________________
Goose - The Egyptian God of Frustration

"He closes his eyes and remembers the night splattered with brightness, the sudden flare of erupting fuel, the mad chase as, supersonic, he bobbed and weaved among the hills and valleys of the Ozarks, the laws on his tail, burning for home …"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:51 pm 
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Corporal
Corporal

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:41 pm
Posts: 25
I like Armory acyrlic spray primer. It's made for metal minis, but works well on virtually any other material. ERH carries the whole line of this primer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:53 pm 
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Private First Class
Private First Class

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 13
Best thing Ive found for base coats are the old citadel primers. NOT THEIR NEW ONES.

Armory works if thats all you have to use, but you have to shake it up a good 30 minutes so it wont be as lumpy.

Ive heard from many people here localy that Walmarts Krylon 15 minute primer works wonders and I intend to grab a few and see how they do.

As far as paints go I use the Privateer Press paints mixed with Games Workshops two lines (Foundation paints are more pastel and are great for the first color scheme before highlighting) as well as Valjeo paints.

Brushes you will want to have on hand a large tank brush for drybrushing techniques. 3 medium middle of the road brushes, but two of them with the tips trimmed short, and you want a 3 ultra fine detail brushes. Extra equipment that are great. Toothpicks and needles. Not that hard to mod an old brush to hold these items and are great for pinpoint painting.

Advanced Painting Techniques. Faster painting tips if you have 3000 mechs/minis sitting on your table for more than a month.

White basecoat is your friend in this case. However this technique is only feasable if you have access to inks that are the same color as the mech you wish to paint. After primer coats make sure you have a smooth color consistancy and no lumps. If you are using Armory after spraying take your tank brush and paint on the mini to grab all the excess paint. After drying take your primary color you wish to use and slop it on at first. It takes a few trys before you get the hang of it. But it really adds all the shadows, midshading and highlights with very little effort. Once the ink drys go back over and touch up the areas you missed with a detail brush. Once finished paint the cockpit window of the color of your choice and your finished.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 3:29 pm 
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Recruit
Recruit

Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:51 pm
Posts: 1
Pretty much only use Reaper paints, especially the Master Series. I use a palette so the eyedropper bottles are best for me.

As far as stripping paint, I use acetone (while wearing latex gloves) for the metal minis, and simple green for the plastics. I LIKE that acetone eats superglue 'cause a lot of times second hand minis aren't assembled the way I'd prefer to, and usually don't have the mold lines and flash cleaned well either.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:43 pm 
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Freedom Fighter
Freedom Fighter

Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 3483
Location: Ft Lauderdale Florida
Every mini i get i first and foremost bathe in warm soapy water to get the mold release agent off of it. This is especially true for the injection molded styrene and plastic stuff from GW and the Catalyst starter set.

After letting it dry i trim any flash, that's the stuff on a mini that foms at seams and pour/injection points. I use either am exacto knife, or my dremmel. (actually a black&decker RTX)

I always drill and pin parts, (with the same RTX drill) the glue I use in invariably Zap-a-Gap, bar none the finest glue ever. Really big metal stuff like reapers Gauth (a dragon) and other huge minatures get spot soldered, with the seam then further filed back and textured to mesh with the miniature.

Once that's done I fill any parts that need it with elmers wood putty. This includes ball sockets, the parts where the mini connects with the base, any holes in the mini, as well as any base terrain I feel like making.

Elmers comes in both a bucket which you apply like spackle, as well as a toothpaste-like squeezy tube. Both have their uses and are part of my standard kit. Anything puttied is filed back to as seamless of a fill as possible.

Then and ONLY then is it time to paint. Like the carpenters say, measure twice, cut once. Make DAMN sure that miniature is ready to paint before you prime it. It is harder to "fix" a mini after its already been primed.

I prime with testors flat spraypaint. Almost always flat black, but occasionally I use other colors. I like black, because you can drybrush other colors over it rather easily. Even light colors, which usually require a drybrush of white first, then the light color. This method is excellent for mecha, as you can bring out panel details and such rather well. Inks are difficult for novice painters, and in fact I think not that important if drybrushing is done properly.

As for the paints themselves, Applebarrel is excellent for flat and neon colors. Their line of metalics is damn fine. I use reaper stuff for colors that you just can't do with the cheaper stuff. Stuff like flecked tints and dual-tones. GW paints are ok, but overrated as far as it goes. The old hexagon shaped pots were cool looking, but they dripped and dried out and overall were poorly designed.

After painting, I use flock and sand on the bases. First i use elmers white glue watered down by about 20% so it is EXTREMELY watery. I squeeze it out of the tube, and use an old brush to spread it around. I then let it set for like 2 minutes, then throw whatever flock I use (usually railroad flocks and GW's green grassy stuff) as appropriate.

When the mini is completely finished as I like it, I seal it. I use either flat, semigloss, or glossy sealants depending on the "look" of the miniature I'm doing. Usually three or four times, the last two always of flat, as nothing ever needs 3 coats of gloss except a stealth bomber.

After all of this, I use magnetic business card paper to make the bottom of the miniature magnetic. The inside of my miniatures case is lined with sheet metal. This inexpensive modification is the best way to transport, because unlike foam transports, NOTHING TOUCHES THE PAINTED PART OF THE MINI. This is the key to preventing wear on the mini. Sealant protects against dice, not constant rubbing and abrasion.

If I decide I'm tired of the paintjob, or of it's a mini I've bought 2nd hand, I pinesol it. About a day in a bath of pinesol kills most paints, break cleaner gets anything else. NEVER USE BREAK CLEANER ON PLASTIC UNLESS YOU WANT THAT PLASTIC DESTROYED

Pinesol is safe on any plastic I've tried it on, except foamcore and some chalky resins. This is not a miniature problem, but one of terrains.

Anyone have anything else to add?

_________________
Big Nick, the Chainsaw Assassin
Making Bad News Worse since 1980
What... There's only ONE of you?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 4:30 am 
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Commanding General
Commanding General

Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 2387
Location: Bristol, West of England, Sol III
The paint stripper i found that works best on ANYTHING is pine scented floor cleaner of any sort. make sure its got cholorobenzane as an incrediant. use it straight up on plastic and metal minis, and on both enamel and acrylic paint. Its a little slow, but its cheap, generic, and easy to find

_________________
Image

"You know what the chain of command is? It's the chain I go get and beat you with 'til you understand who's in ruttin' command here."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 5:10 am 
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Antisocial General
Antisocial General

Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 8:35 am
Posts: 7855
Location: MLC, Lyran Alliance.
For bright, shiny "parade color" schemes, I sometimes use enamels, usually Testors. But for general use, I prefer acrylics. I'm not terribly picky about brands, except that I refuse to use GW paints for their combination of stupid names and ridiculous prices.

For base coats and other tasks using large amounts of one color (like painting an entire unit) I prefer the big cheap bottles of Apple Barrel craft paints from Wal-Mart. Those "Family Size" bottles are perfect for painting on a budget.

For removing paint, I use nail polish remover, or regular paint thinner. Most companies that make paints also make paint thinner; Testors is one that works fairly well.

Tip for screw top bottles: take a dab of petroleum jelly (i.e. Vaseline) and rub it on the threads of the bottle. It will both keep drying paint from sticking the bottle shut, and give the bottle a better seal to slow down the paint drying out.

_________________
Be careful what you wish for. I might let you have it. :evil:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:00 pm 
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Test Pilot
Test Pilot

Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 12363
Location: That flattop, up the well, overhead …
Pardon me as I stick some links for glue here:

http://www.bsiadhesives.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Scroll down to look at the Insta-Flex+, and the IC-2000

http://www.bsiadhesives.com/Pages/hobby/accel.html

They swear up 'n down their accelerator has no drawbacks . . .

http://www.mercuryadhesives.com/

Cute site, but I've not used them, and it seems you need a guide book to pick the model you need . . .

_________________
Goose - The Egyptian God of Frustration

"He closes his eyes and remembers the night splattered with brightness, the sudden flare of erupting fuel, the mad chase as, supersonic, he bobbed and weaved among the hills and valleys of the Ozarks, the laws on his tail, burning for home …"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:11 am 
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Private First Class
Private First Class

Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 13
Games Workshop, Valleo, and P3 are the paints I use, as far as stripping goes. Brakefluid I heard works for metal minis (most plastics would be destroyed by that medium)

so far the best Ive found is Pinesol. Smells nice, which is good as it usually takes 24 hours or longer to strip paints off.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:42 am 
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General Nuisance
General Nuisance

Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 3446
Location: In da Fridge stealing URBeer!
Villaho (spelling) Paints were the best I used. Good creamy consistancy, vivid color. The down side id they come in bottles with squirt tops so you have to squeeze out some onto a pallet. Which leads to paint drying out while you paint.

For Dark Mechs I like using Armory Black Primer...lets me go right to dry brushing and gives me nice dark joining lines. And their white primer for light colors as it keeps the bright colors btight!

Nail Polish Remover for removal.

_________________
Image
http://www.murphyslawgaming.com


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 3:34 pm 
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Lieutenant General
Lieutenant General

Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:41 pm
Posts: 548
Location: PHOENIX, AZ
CharlieTango wrote:
As far as a paint stripper, the cheap store-brand Pine-sol knockoff I have found works REALLY well, even better than the real stuff.

I just want to second this.
A friend of mine suggested it to me and I was quite pleased with the results.
The only thing it failed me on were some grooves & cracks on a couple minis that quite frankly had paint caked on so thick there was more there than metal I think.


As for paints, I'm cheap, so I use the cheap little bottles from Michaels at 50c-$1 a bottle. I don't even recall the name atm. Its waterbased and had a large selection of colors even if they are not always "metal/armor" like and are more "crafts" type selections.


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 Post subject: Re: Unified Paint Guide
PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:23 am 
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Freedom Fighter
Freedom Fighter

Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 3483
Location: Ft Lauderdale Florida
Apple barrel paint? i love that stuff. Likewise I love using generic lemon/pine cleaner to strip minis. eats paint, doesn't harm any plastics. soak for like 36 hours

_________________
Big Nick, the Chainsaw Assassin

Making Bad News Worse since 1980

What... There's only ONE of you?


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 Post subject: Re: Unified Paint Guide
PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:56 pm 
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Freedom Fighter
Freedom Fighter

Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 3483
Location: Ft Lauderdale Florida
I was subtly asked to explain Quickshade...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FfdjTdQJsU

It's good stuff

_________________
Big Nick, the Chainsaw Assassin

Making Bad News Worse since 1980

What... There's only ONE of you?


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