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 Post subject: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:55 pm 
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Village Drunk
Village Drunk

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 4094
Location: Worcester, MA
I'm looking for a large quantity of either Z or ZZ fencing or brick walls...anyone know of a place online that has something like that.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:20 pm 
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MechMeister
MechMeister

Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 13462
Location: RCW Enterprises, SC, USA
chihawk wrote:
I'm looking for a large quantity of either Z or ZZ fencing or brick walls...anyone know of a place online that has something like that.

For a large quantity of walls, I'd just go with stripwood or balsa, and spray it gray. Or spray with a textured paint. Or, to get fancy, mark after or before with block outlines. Anything purchased, especially in Z scale, is going to be expensive.

You can also get sheets (about 4" x 8" IIRC) of embossed plastic, with brick or stone patterns, so you could cover your balsa with those sheets to get better looking ones.

Personally, I'd find a brick/stone graphic I like, and print out entire sheets of it, then cut and glue it to the balsa. It will probably look really good, and be cheap. Spray with a light coat of clear laquer to protect it, if desired.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:59 pm 
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Village Drunk
Village Drunk

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 4094
Location: Worcester, MA
Rick Raisley wrote:
chihawk wrote:
I'm looking for a large quantity of either Z or ZZ fencing or brick walls...anyone know of a place online that has something like that.

For a large quantity of walls, I'd just go with stripwood or balsa, and spray it gray. Or spray with a textured paint. Or, to get fancy, mark after or before with block outlines. Anything purchased, especially in Z scale, is going to be expensive.

You can also get sheets (about 4" x 8" IIRC) of embossed plastic, with brick or stone patterns, so you could cover your balsa with those sheets to get better looking ones.

Personally, I'd find a brick/stone graphic I like, and print out entire sheets of it, then cut and glue it to the balsa. It will probably look really good, and be cheap. Spray with a light coat of clear laquer to protect it, if desired.


Great ideas there...Mordel and I are making our first real venture into making 3D maps and are still feeling our way around things. I suspect we'll be making good use of this forum :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 10:22 pm 
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Warrant Officer
Warrant Officer

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Worcester, MA
Bought most of the supplies today and did a lot of testing.

1" pink foam insulation
Styrofoam Heat Cutter
Glue Sticks & Gun
Krylon H2O Latex Spray Paint (White and Black)
Rust-Oleum Stone textured spray paint (Gray Stone, Black Granite and Pebble)
(still need to buy a couple more spray colors and some model trees, etc)

Our 3D maps will still be hexed based so will follow those rules and not the miniatures rules. Anyways, the plan is to cut the Styrofoam using the cutter into the proper shapes for hills, etc. Levels will be glued together using the hot glue. The hot glue will also be used to seal the regions where the Styrofoam meets for the water levels (this will allow me to actually pour water into the water hexes without it leaking).

As the terrain is cut and applied, it will also undergo a couple coatings of the Krylon H2O (color based on purpose). The Krylon is water based so will not harm the Styrofoam in any manner. It will be used to act as a primer and a seal between the Styrofoam and the Stone accent paint. The stone textured paint will be applied last. Last but not least, I'll use a paint marker (if I can find an appropriate one) to trace out the grid lines for the hexes on the map.

If anyone has any suggestions or thoughts, please let me know. Someone else has probably been through this before so could save me some time and trouble! (and yes, prior to applying any paint where the water hexes will be, I plan on letting water sit in them for a good 24 hours to ensure no leaks exist)

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:27 am 
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Stratego
Stratego

Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 10768
Location: Ft. Hood Texas
May seem redundant, but do not use spray paint on the foam insulation. It will eat it.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:05 am 
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Warrant Officer
Warrant Officer

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Worcester, MA
Karagin wrote:
May seem redundant, but do not use spray paint on the foam insulation. It will eat it.


That's what the Krylon H2O Latex is for. It will not eat through the foam since it's water based.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:33 am 
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Private
Private

Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:41 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Prince George, BC Canada
I like the idea of having real water on the map but I think it may disrupt the paint on your minis? Just something to think about. Might want to do a water dip test on one or something before running a big game and screw up a bunch of paint jobs.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:45 pm 
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Captain
Captain

Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:18 am
Posts: 298
Location: Las Vegas, Nv
Mordel,

I would recommend a Permanent Marker, preferably with a fine point, instead of a paint marker for the grid lines. You'll probably find that the paint marker will make the grid lines too bold and detract from the maps you are designing.

John

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:05 pm 
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Warrant Officer
Warrant Officer

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Worcester, MA
Slideways wrote:
I like the idea of having real water on the map but I think it may disrupt the paint on your minis? Just something to think about. Might want to do a water dip test on one or something before running a big game and screw up a bunch of paint jobs.


Definitely will be testing it before doing it for real. The amount of time submersed in water will be short, so I wouldn't think it would have a big impact. But I'm not a minis painter so I don't really know. I have a mini I'm willing to test it out on to see. In the event it does impact, I'll have some backup minis that I don't really care about that I can use on my "water" boards.

ViperXTC wrote:
I would recommend a Permanent Marker, preferably with a fine point, instead of a paint marker for the grid lines. You'll probably find that the paint marker will make the grid lines too bold and detract from the maps you are designing.


Something else for me to test. I just wonder if the marker will be able to actually draw a line with the textured paint.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:51 pm 
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MechMeister
MechMeister

Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 13462
Location: RCW Enterprises, SC, USA
I don't know how you plan on doing trees, but I've been very pleased with the method my son and I developed on our 3D maps: http://www.heavymetalpro.com/MapGallery.htm and http://www.heavymetalpro.com/3D-MapInfo.htm

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:52 am 
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Warrant Officer
Warrant Officer

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Worcester, MA
Rick Raisley wrote:
I don't know how you plan on doing trees, but I've been very pleased with the method my son and I developed on our 3D maps: http://www.heavymetalpro.com/MapGallery.htm and http://www.heavymetalpro.com/3D-MapInfo.htm


Well, I plan on purchasing some light and dark modeling trees. Yes, they do get in the way if you land in them, but that's something I think I'm willing to deal with. Players will just need to pull the tree up when they end their turn and put it back in the hole when they next move.

Nice edge cutting, by the way. Mine is still a bit sloppy! Some hexes (most) are smaller than a regular hex. I don't think I've learned to account for the foam melting some. I draw the lines and cut along the lines, but I need to learn to cut to the inside or the outside depending on what the terrain is for. Sub-levels should cut to the inside and hills should cut to the outside to account for the melting. I'll get the hang of it eventually.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 6:47 pm 
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MechMeister
MechMeister

Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 13462
Location: RCW Enterprises, SC, USA
Mordel wrote:
Rick Raisley wrote:
I don't know how you plan on doing trees, but I've been very pleased with the method my son and I developed on our 3D maps: http://www.heavymetalpro.com/MapGallery.htm and http://www.heavymetalpro.com/3D-MapInfo.htm


Well, I plan on purchasing some light and dark modeling trees. Yes, they do get in the way if you land in them, but that's something I think I'm willing to deal with. Players will just need to pull the tree up when they end their turn and put it back in the hole when they next move.

You don't like our method where trees are placed at the hex corners? It really looks pretty good and is easy to use (no trees need to be moved).
Quote:
Nice edge cutting, by the way.

I never thought ours was all that good. I've seen a lot of maps where people will slope the level "grades", making them look very nice (and vary them with ruts like in the real world), but that also reduces the size of the hex for the 'Mech. (And in my case, the trees.)

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 12:12 am 
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Freedom Fighter
Freedom Fighter

Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 8:00 pm
Posts: 3483
Location: Ft Lauderdale Florida
I use nylon screen-door screen (mesh) to do cyclone fencing. Want barbed wire? take the steel kind, cut a single wire and use the horizontal bits to be "barbs. Coil it around a pencil and stretch it for concertina wire.

Works great for 15mm and 25mm scale. 6mm scale it looks a little off, but is workable.

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 4:32 pm 
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Village Drunk
Village Drunk

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 4094
Location: Worcester, MA
chainsawassassin wrote:
I use nylon screen-door screen (mesh) to do cyclone fencing. Want barbed wire? take the steel kind, cut a single wire and use the horizontal bits to be "barbs. Coil it around a pencil and stretch it for concertina wire.

Works great for 15mm and 25mm scale. 6mm scale it looks a little off, but is workable.


What we're looking for is what looks like the wall/fencing around a NASCAR track...

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 Post subject: Re: Fencing/walls
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 6:32 pm 
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Loki
Loki

Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2001 8:00 pm
Posts: 11442
Location: Minnesnowta
Ah, for THAT all you need is some flattened beer cans...

:angel:

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